Honey, I'm home! Grateful to have some wonderful people in my life to visit in Israel. To understand a place, you'll also need to understand the people there. Once you know them, it'll come as no surprise that Israel ranks as the 13th happiest country in the world, the USA over the years has continued to drop and in 2019 was rated the 19th happiest country by the world's happiness report. At first, Israelis could seem tough before you see their kindness, which is why they call themselves sabra's; a fruit that has thick skin with a sweet interior.
It's a refreshing modern liberal atmosphere in the middle east. For all-vegan foodies you'll be in heaven here. Israelis have this swag and confidence, they go from their startup jobs to bars to the beach, hardly wearing makeup and no-frills clothing while looking so cool and not breaking a sweat. I know many also try to not look at their bank account too often since the cost of living is HIGH.
If it is your first time visiting you can say the Shehechiyanu, a blessing for a special new occasion. You'll notice on the sabbath that almost everything shuts down, till after Havdallah (transition from Shabbat to the rest of the week). If you aren't participating in the holiday you'll want to make your plans with this in mind. Shabbat is a special time to join in though with thousands of Jews from all around the globe, a joyful celebration.
Israel is comparable in size to the state of New Jersey. Public transportation is clean and for the most part manageable to get around. Drivers can be aggressive, make sure to have your taxi driver put the meter on before you start your drive so you aren't ripped off. Moovit and Waze are helpful transportation apps to use to get around. If you do need help finding your way, most people can speak English besides Hebrew and Arabic. Road signs are also in the above three languages.
Observance level in Israel is quite varied, so although you are likely to visibly see Orthodox easier from how they dress, others are strongly connected in other ways to Israel secularly. There are various Orthodox groups and they all dress differently to show what group they belong to. Orthodox Men would wear either a yarmulke or a black hat, which defines which group you belong to (head covering to remind them that G-d is above them). They will wear tzitzit, a four-pointed garment with fringes on the corners, underneath their shirt, a reminder of the commandments. Those that have payot/sidelocks interpret the Torah to not remove hair from their face. Women will dress modestly (tzniut) and stick to long dresses, skirts rather than pants and cover their collar bone and have shirts covering them above their elbow. Married, women cover their hair in public, with a wig, scarf, or hat.
Tel Aviv- Pride takes place here each year and is a sight I'd like to experience myself. Beach days and startup nation can be found here, similar to Silicon Valley in the US in that regard. The Florentin district reminds me of a bit of hipster Brooklyn, with nightlife comparable to NY or other big cities around the world. Tel Aviv is one of the most expensive cities in the world. Folks who live in Tel Aviv, I envy a little. Freetour.com is a great resource for free tours or affordable tours in an area and each one I've gone on, I really liked by the local experts (who are trained and have to pass exams in their country).
Visit the beach at any time of day but especially for sunrises and sunsets. So gorgeous. Taking a Segway tour is a fun quick way to see the beach if you don't feel like walking.
The Old Man and the Sea- an incredible colorful spread of food and you can sit alfresco by the water at The Port of Jaffa. You can also walk the old alleyways with graffiti. Enjoy it, this form of art allows artists to express stories and touch upon political movements. You can read about other delicious food in my post "Come hungry, leave happy, let's eat in Israel".
The Clock Tower- Located in the middle of Yefet Street in Jaffa. A plaque on the tower is for the Israelis killed in the battle for the town in the 1948 Arab–Israeli War. Muslims, Christians, and Jews live in Harmony and for the most get along, don't let the media tell you otherwise, you can't describe a whole group of people to all be the same. The flea market is also here, the items definitely are used. Ever needed an antique magic carpet? You can get it here!
The Wishing Bridge- Ancient legend states that anyone who stands on the bridge, and touches their astrological sign and looks to the sea that their wish will happen.
Rothschild Boulevard
Rabin Square
Kikar Magen David
Shuk Camel- A bustling marketplace
Dizengoff Center- A modern mall for shopping
Independence Hall- Where it all began, it is small but it is where the declaration of the establishment of the State of Israel took place.
Rabin Square- This spot is where Prime Minister Rabin was assassinated only moments after singing a song for peace.
Jerusalem- "If I forget you, let my right hand forget what it's supposed to do" (Psalms 137). Although many who visit the country often remark on Tel Aviv as their favorite city (sin city of Israel), there is something special about Jerusalem to me. You can feel it in the air. I love that everyone seems to have an intense passion and is spiritual, specifically in Jerusalem. It's comforting yet terrifying. The western wall, as well as the other religious sites, are hard to describe in words. For some, they can feel a religious or spiritual connection and for others, it is just a sight. The city like the whole county is ancient yet modern, diverse. You'll likely want to wear more modest clothing while visiting these holy sites but like everywhere you go in the country if visiting during a sunny time pack sunscreen, sunglasses, hats, and water.
Stay- I really enjoyed The Post hostel as it is centrally located to everything. I've also heard good things about Abraham Hostel from friends. I like hostels as it is a bit more affordable, they often are near many things to do, they have classes and tours often for free or at a low cost and it's an easy way to meet other travelers. If you are looking for a traditional upscale hotel experience The David Citadel is a good choice and has an amazing gym and pool. The King David is also a classic choice where many politicians and celebrities have stayed. You can even just dine here for a meal or a drink. They also have other hotels under their chain like The Dan Boutique Hotel.
Visit the Holy sites in the Old City of Jerusalem. Yes, you can visit all of them if you have a desire to ... I've had the most experience with the western wall for the obvious reason, yet on my last trip in the winter of 2019-2020 I realized I never had taken the opportunity to visit all the sections of the Holy old city and I'm now glad I was able to see them all. Each section has winding tunnels, filled with shops and it's easy to get confused with all the colors and goods.
The Jewish Quarter has delicious places to stop and eat/drink that are kosher as well as gift shops for books, jewelry, or anything else you may be interested in. The Kotel also referred to as the Western or Wailing Wall, is the only visible retaining wall from the 2nd Jewish Temple. That temple was destroyed by the Romans in 70AD. Today it is the holiest place in the world for Jews and functions as a synagogue/shul/temple. Touching the stones, praying, writing your own personal prayer on a note to be answered, and sticking it into the wall and many will even dance together. Complete strangers come together over a strong connection. You may even visit while a bar (for males) mitzvah takes place which is a religious ceremony when a person becomes an adult in the Jewish faith Females depending on their denomination will have a bat-mitzvah. The Western Wall is separated by gender but makes for some high-quality people watching. There is a handwashing station before you get close to the wall and if you aren't covering enough of your body, you could be asked to put on a garment to cover up.
The Temple Mount refers to where the 1st and 2nd temple complexes were located and the first holy site for the Jews, the foundation is the only part that survived. The dome of the Rock is where Jews believe, Abraham was told to sacrifice his son, Isaac, as a test of his faith. Muslims believe Mohammed went to heaven here. Al-Aqsa is the second oldest mosque in the world and the third holiest site. I found it interesting that what I wore to the Western Wall a long dress with a coat on top of it and high boots was acceptable yet here it wasn't this dress was somehow not baggy enough and I was given a piece of fabric to put over my winter outfit.
Church of the Holy Sepulchre- I have only been to churches in Italy touring them, and in comparison to this one in Jerusalem...well it's not up to par. Why is this? Well, it's because all the different sects of Christianity have sections of the Church and they can't come to agreements on maintaining and updating the space. The most fascinating piece of information is none of the sects have a key to the church. A Muslim family does because the different Christian sects couldn't trust each other, funny. Many Christians will retrace the route they believe Jesus walked with the cross.
Armenian Quarter- The only section not dedicated to a major religion, they have a church, just like Greek Orthodox do, etc. So why do they have their own separate section? The Armenians had a presence in the city since the fourth century, displaced survivors of the Armenian Genocide relocated to this section of Jerusalem in the 20th century. This is the smallest of all the sections.
Hezekiah’s Tunnel - City of David- One of the most unique cool experiences I've had thankfully because my host family at the time took me. I definitely didn't wear the right outfit. I nearly lost my flipflops. Shoes with a back would be a better choice and a purse isn't ideal, maybe a backpack but it could easily get wet. We did have lights so we could easily see. If you are claustrophobic this wouldn't be for you either. It is an underground tunnel built during the 8th century to protect Jerusalem's water from invaders.
Mahane Yehuda Market- The place to get souvenirs (t-shirts, jewelry, magnets, etc.) and farmers market style food to either take or they have restaurants to eat at and drink. You didn't really experience the market if you didn't have to haggle over a few shekels (the currency in Israel) over an item. The largest open food air market in Jerusalem.
Ben Yehuda St.- Center of the city with bars, restaurants, and shopping.
Yad Vashem- You won't be able to walk here or take public transportation easily, the best bet is to hail a cab. Drivers are a bit crazy here, make sure to have them start the meter when you get in and wear your belt, it could be a bumpy ride. Every time I visit this museum, I learn something new. Each exhibit is powerful. “The one who does not remember history is bound to live through it again.” - George Santayana. It is the Jewish people's memorial to victims murdered during the Holocaust (six million) as well as highlighting the righteous gentiles. This museum is specially laid out as you aren't able to skip exhibits, once you exit the museum you see beautiful bustling Israel. The museum showcases Zionism and the creation of the modern state of Israel. The Hall of names is the last exhibit and is meant to record every Jewish victim.
Mt Herzl- Israel's national cemetery, fallen soldiers from Israel's wars, and leaders of the nation are buried here.
Mamilla Mall- Shops, cafes, and restaurants (Luciana is a favorite Italian restaurant here; Kosher dairy. There's also an Aroma for your coffee and rugelach pick me up while shopping.)
The First Station- Shops, restaurants, live concerts in a unique location - an old train station!
Ticho House- One of the first houses built in Jerusalem in the 2nd half of the century. It serves today as a museum.
Israel Museum- The Dead Sea Scrolls and other treasures are located here.
Caesarea- One of Israel’s most important cities in the Roman Period, for its seaport on the Mediterranean. Named after Emperor Caesar.
Any Archaeologists? Visit excavations along the Mediterranean shore and a Roman amphitheater.
View ancient roman aqueducts located on the beaches of Caesarea.
Tzfat- Experience the city of Jewish mysticism, where the great Kabbalists lived and
studied - Inhale the pure Galilee Mountain air, it is magical, spiritual, quiet, and peaceful. Madonna even had a home here and was studying Kabbalah.
Visit Otzar HaStam and learn the art of writing Sifrei Torah, Tefillin & Mezuzot firsthand from real-life scribes. The top right is professional writing my name and the bottom is my sad attempt.
Ascent has programs, volunteer opportunities, and is also a hostel. Come here to get in touch with a spiritual side to yourself, Shabbat is wonderful here as well as a Farbrengen (a gathering to sing, drink, nosh, and talk about topics). Some of the most beautiful mikvahs that are handicap accessible I saw while here. They are like a spa/bath with the purpose of ritual immersion to achieve ritual purity.
The Kinert/Sea of Galilee- Largest freshwater lake. You could stumble upon a Kibbutz here as well as others across the country, these are communal settlements that are farmed. Through their Zionism, they turned the desert of Israel into orchards. Many Christian bible stories are set here. There are many olive orchards in Israel as they are an essential part of the cuisine here. Olea Essence is a family farm in this area and they use every part of the olive, which is how they create their beauty products. I like their hand lotion and lip balm.
Golan Heights- In the north of the country, a mountainous region. My favorite way I've explored this is by Jeep. Some incredible landscape and history here. IDF soldiers battles here during the Six-day War and the Yom Kippur War. You can see panoramic views of Syria from Mt. Bental. Hike Jilabun to enjoy nature and find out more about the challenges of living there today.
Judean Desert
Masada- UNESCO declared National Park a World Heritage Site. Even though it's highly recommended you go in the early hours in the morning since it'll be super hot in the afternoon, it is worth it to see the view, sunrise, and feel accomplished on the hike. If you don't have the time or want to hike you can also take a tram that lasts a few minutes. This landmark is a symbol of Jewish defiance. 2,000 years ago a group of Jews took a final stand against the Romans at Masada. The Romans were going to take the people and make them their slaves. The Jews decided to take their own lives so they could die free rather than live as slaves. No one was left to share their story, but today millions visit Masada and share their story with the world! They were willing to perish to keep their Jewish identity. What are we willing to die for and what are we willing to live for today?
Ein Gedi- Multiple hiking trails with springs to cool off in.
The Dead Sea- The lowest point on earth! Float away and take advantage of the beauty products. Unfortunately, each year the Dead Sea shrinks a meter because of human interference. Maybe a good thing that will come out from the Covid-19 Pandemic (when I'm writing this piece) is that humans can slow down the damage we've made to mother earth. If you have a cut and go into the water it'll majorly burn from the salty water. Placing mud all over your body is part of the experience and has benefits to make your skin smooth.
Experience camel rides followed by traditional Bedouin Hospitality in this area of the country. You may also have the opportunity to ride donkeys.
The Salad Trail - This farm combines agriculture, and care for the environment. They have some spicy peppers you can try if you dare!
Moshav Netiv Ha’asara, located on Israel’s border with the Gaza Strip, is likely as close as you should get to find out more about the complexity of security.
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